Greetings! For 22 years I've been exploring Copper Canyon, actually part of the largest system of canyons in the world, totaling 3 times as long as the Grand Canyon, deeper and far wilder -about like the Grand 100 years ago. 60,000 Tarahumara Indians (they call themselves Raramuri) live here, mostly up on the plateaus. Hundreds still live in the overhang-type caves quite common here. Most tourism is up on the 7,500'-8000' elevation rim, and there are two spectacular roads to the little bottomland towns of Batopilas and Urique. Otherwise outsiders seldom venture far into the big canyons, as trails are poor, steep, unsigned, and incorrectly marked on topo maps. Now that transportation has improved, I'm offering 2 trips to 2 different hot springs in the subtropical bottomlands, one difficult, one very difficult. The season is November-March. It's too hot in the bottomlands the rest of the year. The springs make perfect base camps for exploring the extensive network of tiny trails everywhere.
(Don't confuse these springs with the commercial Recowata or Basirecota hot springs in smaller canyons nearer Creel. Ours are much deeper in, much more spectacular, and much wilder. The upper hot springs sees a few people a week; I've never seen anyone at the inner springs. The bottomlands are the subtropical area closest to Colorado. The top has periodic snow in winter.)
![]() Urique River from the Great Overlook |
![]() The Upper hot springs |
Trip 1: Upper hot springs, waterfalls and the river below; 3 or more nights in the canyon. DifficultWe take a 45 minute taxi from the hotel in Creel to the village of Arepo . We start gently up, gaining about 400 vertical feet, then gently down about 800' - about 1 1/2 hours total on a long promontory, to the White Rocks. We stop for rest, food and photos before starting down the 120 narrow steep switchbacks. 2 1/2 hours later and a half mile lower we stop at a nice cool spring and wash up. We pass a tiny settlement and an hour later arrive at the Upper hot springs. There are several small pools of different temperatures. Total descent is 3800'.We'll camp under the large boulder in the photo above right, unless it rains, in which case we'll camp in my tent about 5 minutes back up the trail. The hot springs are 30' from the boulder, and the Great Overlook is about a 10 minute hike. The next day we'll need a rest, so we probably won't do anything harder than the 30 minute hike to the waterfalls. The 3rd day we'll hike past the falls to the river 1000' below. The last day is the hardest: 3800' vertical back up the way we came. |
![]() One of the series of waterfalls totaling 1000' |
Getting to the waterfalls and river requires a bit of easy climbing, so make sure you can do what's in these videos. You won't need to do them with a pack for Trip 1.
Trip 2:
![]() Cave and overlook above |
![]() Inner Hot
Springs
|
Trip 2: Trip 1, then upriver to the Arroyo and the Inner hot springs; returning via the Upper hot springs; 6 or more nights in the canyon. Parts are very difficult.After the rest day of Trip 1, we descend 1000' past the waterfalls to the river (about an hour), hike up the main river 2 hours, then up the Arroyo about 15 minutes to the Inner hot springs. We'll camp in the cave in the photo and/or in my tent by the springs, 100 yards from the cave. The one large spring is up to 5' deep, and the temperature can be controlled by allowing in stream water.We can hike about 40 minutes up the falls and pools of the Arroyo until cliffs stop us. We can also hike up to several overlooks 300' above the springs, further up the arroyo, up the main river, or across the river to buy oranges. We return to the Upper hot springs, spend at least another rest day there, then head up. |
![]() Banana
trees in the Arroyo
|
There is more easy climbing to get to the Inner hot springs, so watch these clips. You'll need to do these with a pack:
Cost:$470 per person (assuming 3 people) total for 3 or 4 nights in the canyon: $200 roundtrip bus from Denver; $35 for lodging; $35 for food; $200 for my expenses and guide fee. $30 each additional night. This is not for gourmet food. If you want that, you can bring it. I can't bring groups of more than 3 because there's just no more flat space for camping!
Transportation:
From Denver, there are 3 reasonable choices, or we can meet in Creel, close to the Canyon.
1. Bus: About 23 hours and $95 each way. 3 Mexican lines (better, faster and cheaper than Greyhound) leave Denver at 7PM, get to El Paso about 6AM. (My favorite is Autobuses Los Paisanos.) Cross border to Juarez. Bus to Chihuahua, arrive noon. Bus to Creel, arrive 6. These buses run fairly full, getting 50-135 passenger-miles/gallon, which makes this a "low-carbon" as well as low-cost trip.
2. Private vehicle: About 18 hours and 1100 miles each way. I don't have a suitable vehicle. Your insurance isn't valid in Mexico, so you must buy special insurance (about $75 for 2 weeks). At the border, you must give them a credit card number. They expect you to bring the same vehicle back or they'll tax you 100% of its value.
3. Small Plane: I think I can arrange a pilot and plane, which would take about 4-5 hours from Denver. Much more expensive. There are commercial planes to Chihuahua City, but they go via Dallas or Mexico City and don't mesh well with the final 5-hr. bus.
Accomodations & Weather
Margarita's Guest House is right on the plaza near the bus and train stations in Creel. Private rooms are $35 for 2; dormitory is $8-10; Both include family-style breakfast and dinner! I can meet you here . We spend a night here on arrival and another before departing Creel. Otherwise these are camping trips.
December-Feb.there's occassional snow up on the plateau areas, but the bottom, some 4,700' below, is warm enough for oranges and bananas! So you need winter clothes to travel in that we leave at Margaritas, taking light and middle-weight clothes -including raingear- down in the canyon.
Warnings & Reassurances:
These trips are not for anyone who's overweight or weak in the knees, ankles, or hips, or afraid of heights or Mexico. Except for border areas, Mexico is safer and less violent than the U.S., because handguns are illegal and it's a Catholic country under the protection of the Virgin of Guadelupe! Speaking some Spanish will make the trip more fun.
Documents required by the U.S. to re-enter are described here.
This will probably be the hardest hike you've ever done. For safety reasons, I won't take you if your pack weighs more than 45 pounds. Because the trails are small and fragile, I won't take you if YOU weigh more than 180 pounds. Please bring hiking or ski poles: this will save your knees when carrying a full pack down the 120 narrow switchbacks the first day, and will help you get back up the last day.
I'm just the guide. I will cook with you but not for you. Except for the hot springs, don't expect luxury! There is sometimes mule or goat shit around the camping areas, and it's rocky and sandy. There a few mosquitos and flies, so I bring some herbal repellent. Scorpions are around but not common.
Photos & other trips
Slide show is here. My older Copper Canyon photos are here and here. You can learn a bit about me.
For custom trips & the Copper Canyon Ultramarathon Race, go with my friend Caballo Blanco. For mountain biking, etc., go with Arturo.
Communal dinner at Margaritas Tarahumara goatherd
